Tahiti is one of the most sought after surf destinations in the world and loved so deeply by locals, travellers and pro surfers. Born and raised in France, this passionate surfer made his move to the largest of the French Polynesian islands for 20+ years. This dedicated business man channels his love and energy of surfing into his store, 69 Slam Tahiti.
69 Slam is an extreme sports brand created in 2013, it is a new modern, active lifestyle brand that has blown up globally and are found in 50 countries.
Name: Frédéric Godmet
Date of Birth: 01.31.1977
Height: 5’9″ (1.75 m)
Location: Tahiti/French Polynesia
Local Break: Papenoo
Countries Surfed: France, Spain, Portugal, Martinique, Guadeloupe, Panama, Ivory Coast, Morocco, French Polynesian Islands, Bali, Australia, New Zealand, U.S. (California, Hawaii)
Experience (Years): 23
Inspirations: Rob Matchado, Kalani Rob (for surfing), Mother Theresa, Nelson Mandela (for life)
How did you get into surfing?
When I was 13 years old, my uncle helped me discover my passion for surfing during a summer in Hossegor, France. I was already enjoying swimming and skating. My love for the ocean made me turn to surfing naturally.
Can you give us an idea of what your typical meals in a day would be?
I’ve been a vegetarian for several years now but also eat a lot of our local Tahitian fish like Mahi Mahi and Tuna. Whipping up a quick meal from raw fish and coconut with rice is great! Also, I eat a lot of fruit and drink fresh fruit juices as much as I can. I have chickens in my garden for their eggs because I know that they are organic. Every single day, I go to my backyard to grab a coconut and drink the water.
Do you do any stretches or exercises pre-surf or post-surf?
No. I do meditation regularly and I see my osteopath when I’m injured.
I still do some physical exercises before I hit the water but they’re more DIY like gardening at home 🙂
What do you grab for a post-surf snack?
Fruits and drink of spring water, we have pure water springs that flow next to the beach. Also, I love Tahitian coconut bread 🙂
What’s your favourite gear?
I love my 5’9″ SWOP short board or my TEVA 6’4″ board for beach breaks. Also, I really enjoy my 6’6″ board for reef breaks. I have an 8’0″ paddleboard, and have a great time with my 4’9″ Mini Simons made by SWOP surfboard which is the prefect board for all conditions. It’s pretty funny actually, you can surf it like a long board or a short board.
As for my other beach gear, I like taking my cell phone out with me take some pictures. Aside from my flip flops, my 69 slam boardshorts are awesome! Life is better in boardshorts 🙂