The Reason I Travel to Surf

Just like our own personal styles, we all have our own reasons and motivations to do the things we do. Travel is no different.
As we get older, we gain more responsibilities which cuts into our own personal leisure time. The yoga class on Tuesdays with the girls is now a once a month appearance instead of a weekly ritual. The pints of beer (or cider) with friends after work is few and far between. At times, one could feel that travel is less enjoyable given your flights for business are becoming more frequent and leisure travel seems almost obsolete.

Travel for me is purely therapeutic. I get to leave my life, strap on a backpack, throw my hair in a bun and look forward to being a beach bum for a week or so. It’s not a life reset, but allows me to be me without judgment. Between social and professional events, I find that I am more frequently getting lost in the craziness of my industry and its expectations. We all need a bit of therapy, just to keep it real – even if it’s for a moment. I certainly would not turn down an opportunity to eat ceviche in my bright pink board shorts while watching the sunset over the ocean.

I am passionate about travelling to destinations where I can surf and float around the ocean for hours on end. Should I ever be reincarnated, I’m hoping that being a mermaid will be an option. The ocean is such a big, powerful, and majestic body of water that is full of beauty – discovered and undiscovered. It is humbling to know that it takes one quick moment to be swept away in an undertow and trapped under crashing waves as you disappear into the salty blue abyss.
I believe that life is no different than surfing. It’s full of hard work, perseverance and frustration. I tell my friends at home that the 20 minute paddle out is worth the 20 second ride in. Surfing tests your patience as you want to capitalize on the right opportunity and not on every opportunity that presents itself to you. This is where your patience is tried to the point that some will pack it in and call it quits. If you don’t quit, you realize that some of the waves are small and easy to catch but the ride is less fulfilling. Others can look like the right opportunity, but the closer they get you realize that they’re not as good as you made them out to be and if anything, a mistake as they crash over you while tossing you around like a rag doll. If you still have the fire in your belly to fight your way back to get the perfect wave. There’s always a bit of uncertainty but once you commit 110%, paddle hard and pop up to ride that perfect 20 second wave – the feeling of accomplishment is amazing.
So, why do I travel to surf? It’s the activity that challenges me on a number of different levels but most importantly, this is where I feel my best: unstoppable, confident and beautiful. Even if it is twice a year, it’s a feeling that no one can take away from me.

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